It is a Chilango religion that we practice at all times. There are shop tortas, street stall tortas, canteen tortas, tortería tortas (of enormous size); all of them are venerated for being a work food, a daily battery and accessible. Of milanesa, cheese, sausage, egg, pork leg or all mixed together, the torta is our daily sustenance.

In this city without sea you can eat very good seafood. There are ceviche tostadas, aguachile, or the classic tuna tostadas with avocado, fried leeks and mayonnaise (invented here). There are minilla pescadillas (with lots of lime), battered fish and “curacrudas” (hangover remedy) cocktails with spicy sauces.

The triumph of home versus office is eaten without silverware and served with double tortilla, rice, and one or two stews (each day a different one). The stew taco is the closest thing to a home-cooked meal for those of us who spend ten hours a day away from home. It shows up at hunger time in semi-fixed stalls or even in car trunks.

Mexico City is the capital of tacos, they all live here! Every day there is a new one and none of them is the same as the previous one. There are beef head tacos, barbacoa, grilled, cochinita, pork, carnitas, mixiote, milanesa and even chilaquiles! And then there are their cousins, the flautas, swimming in cream and raw green salsa.

This broth is the most Chilango of all. A dish for the poor, with thick consistency, spicy and rough, just like the place where it is from. A dish that lifts everyone’s spirits. Made with pork bones, chile guajillo, epazote and pieces of cold soaked bread, migas remind us that we should never judge a soup before trying it.